Program Mode -What is it?

Program Vs. Auto - IN THREE PARTS

When I teach this is the most asked question. What is the difference between all of the modes on my camera. Well every camera is different, but they all have different modes. And most have an Auto mode and a P or Program mode. Often the auto mode is a green rectangle or a green camera on the dial where Program is simply a capital "P".

Where/What is the P mode and the Auto mode on my camera?  Okay so see below - on the newer cameras you can see these modes and all your other pertinent info on the back of the screen (if you dont see it press the Q or display button on your Canon or Nikon) Or this info is on the dial. See below the auto mode is displayed differently but in all cases below is the green area - little camera, or rectangle with an A in it? That's your auto mode - and the P - right next to it or almost next to it is program.

Now what is the difference in these two? Not a whole lot, but sooo much! Okay loaded question, loaded answer. Auto, or as I call it when I teach "idiot mode" (which is not meant to be offensive, it is merely meant to indicate that you don't have to make any decisions and really are not allowed to make any choices in that mode) Is the green rectangle or camera or word Auto. It does everything for you - you literally point and shoot. Everything is automatic. Now in P or Program, you have some control. Not the kind of control you have in the other modes - (M, A, and S) but some. You are able to control 3 things-

ISO

Flash

Exposure compensation.

Okay terrific now do you know what those three things are?

Lets discuss.

ISO is short for International Standards Organization – the main governing body that standardizes sensitivity ratings for camera sensors. It’s a a term that was carried over from film. When you change your ISO setting, you’re adjusting your camera’s sensitivity to light. ISO settings can be anywhere from 24 to 6,400 (or higher), and these numbers have a direct relationship with the device’s sensitivity, so a lower setting makes it less sensitive and a high setting makes it more so.  ISO is one of the three factors that determine your picture’s exposure. Finding the right balance between these three settings is key to getting the perfect shot.

Finding the right ISO setting

First of all, you should know that a higher ISO typically translates to a noisy or “grainy” image, so as a general rule you want to use the lowest setting possible for your photos. Check out the picture below to see the difference it can make. 

A lower ISO will usually produce more color-accurate, aesthetically pleasing images, but there are situations where a higher ISO is desirable. The proper ISO setting really depends on the level of lighting you’re shooting in and the visual effect you’re going for, so rather than relying on one over-arching rule, consult this list of tips:

• If your subject is moving and you’re trying freeze the motion for a still, you’ll likely need a higher ISO setting to compensate for the high shutter speed and ensure your image gets enough light
• If you’re going for more of a vintage aesthetic and want to add a little bit of grain to your photos, don’t be afraid to bump up the ISO a few notches
• If you’re using a tripod to stabilize your camera you can usually get away with a slower shutter speed, which in turn allows you to use a lower ISO 
• If you’re shooting an image that doesn’t require a large depth-of-field, you can increase the camera’s aperture (thus allowing more light into the lens) and use a lower ISO
• If you’re shooting with artificial light (i.e., using a flash) you can typically get away with a lower ISO setting

You’ll probably need to experiment a bit until you hit the sweet spot, but while you tinker with settings, keep the following in mind: 

• Never trust your camera’s display. Don’t assume that your picture will turn out just because the tiny 2-inch preview looks adequate. Your shots almost always look different on your computer, and you probably won’t be able to spot noise on your camera’s small, low-resolution display. For this reason, we highly recommend that you zoom in a bit to check your images for grain. There’s nothing worse than taking a bunch of seemingly great shots only to discover they’re noisy and speckled when you upload them to your PC.

Speaking of display - where do we find the iso settings? Below we have both Nikon and Canon screens pictured.  In most situations, you can change the ISO in three places - on the screen on the back of the camera - the shooting screen if you have one, the menu in the interior of the camera, and the ISO shortcut key (found on the back of your canon camera) 

In part two we will talk about Flash!

Let me know if you want to inquire about private lessons or the like. Sometimes this stuff is easier to learn one on one and hands on.

Why Abundant Moments Photography?

How do you decide which photographer is the right choice?
PART ONE

1. Experience
2. Price
3. Talent


Debra here - owner of Abundant Moments - your blogger today! 
1. Experience
Abundant Moments Photography was built from the ground up in 2000.  Initially, I worked at portrait studios to supplement my income while getting my masters degree.  I shot friends and families pictures as "favors" and loved it.  Eventually, after enough people suggested "you should do this for a living" I began work at a professional studio.  I ended up managing a staff and a number of different franchise studios.  A decent job, but honestly not photography.  It was management.  I loved it though!  I did, however, want to get back to what I loved - shooting.  When I started having kids in 1996, I quit managing studios and did some home based things to make ends meet.  From telemarketing to day care I tried it all.  Finally I was in a car accident.  It was a bad one and I was laid up for a while not able to do much. After I recovered I used the $2500 of settlement money (really not much) to buy a trailer and equipment and set up a traveling studio.  I charged $50 and drove to their house, set up a full studio with props, shot a full session, then developed the film and brought back 4x6 proofs a week later.  No one bought pictures.  I discovered quickly that they weren't motivated to purchase pictures when I gave them all the 4x6s.  From there it grew.  So In 2000 I registered my name, and set up the business.  14 years later, we are doing terrific!! And actually the prices I charged then are within 15% of what I charge now - but now you get more for your buck! 

Understand though that experience is about MORE than years.  I know photographers that have been shooting for years but don't keep their stuff fresh.  This is critical.  I'm on intstagram and pinterest on on others websites constantly seeing what is "in" and new.  I want to know what is out there and what others like.  The experience makes my pictures a good quality and makes me quick and efficient, but it doesn't make me GOOD. See "Talent " for more on that.  

Here is one of the first shots I ever took in 2000 - 

  








Here's the thing.  I love that picture.  Still do.  And its a good quality. Nothing wrong with it.  Do I take better pictures now? Sure, for the most part, but honestly the difference is in knowing when to shoot, how to pose, how to get the expressions, how to treat the client, what to provide for the customer, what would I WANT?  I am of course focused on getting "THE" shot, but I also want to create an environment that makes people say - "This was a great experience - I want to come back." This is tough.  I live here - my studio is in my home - I have 5 kids. And for 14 years I have worked 40 plus (no kidding - every week) building this business.  WORTH IT!!!  But tough.  I guess what I am saying is that experience is important, but more than that its a feeling - a fit.  Are we right for you?  Lets talk and spend some time together  and we will find out!!

Come back tomorrow for part two!!!